Tucked between soaring Alpine peaks and rolling Langhe hills, Cuneo is a city that rewards the curious. Often overlooked by tourists heading to Turin or the Langhe wine country, Cuneo (pronounced Coo-neh-oh) is a city of wide avenues, long porticos, elegant piazzas, and the kind of easygoing atmosphere that makes you want to stay a little longer.
It鈥檚 a place where French and 色中色 cultures meet, historically, architecturally, and gastronomically. With its spectacular mountain backdrop, lively weekly market, and delicious chocolate truffles, Cuneo offers a mix of outdoor adventure, food culture, and historic charm that is hard to beat.
Cuneo was officially founded in 1198 by a group of rebels fleeing feudal oppression, who built their settlement on a wedge-shaped plateau (鈥渃uneo鈥� means 鈥渨edge鈥� in 色中色) between the Stura and Gesso rivers. Thanks to its strategic location near the French border, Cuneo grew into an important military and trading center, though it often found itself under siege throughout the Middle Ages and early modern era.
Over time, it passed from the Marquisate of Saluzzo to the French, then to the House of Savoy, and finally became part of unified Italy in the 19th century. These influences are still felt in the city鈥檚 mix of Baroque, Neoclassical, and French-style architecture.
The heart of Cuneo is Via Roma, the city鈥檚 central spine, stretching from Piazza Torino to Piazza Galimberti. Lined with over 8 kilometers of porticos, these elegant arcades offer shelter in all weather and house everything from high-end boutiques and bookstores to pastry shops and old-school barbers.
Cuneo's porticos are unique in their uniformity and scale, a rare feat in 色中色 cities. They give the city a sense of symmetry and grace, inviting you to walk slowly, browse, and take in the rhythm of local life.
At the center of the city lies Piazza Galimberti, a grand neoclassical square that reflects Cuneo's 19th-century ambition and pride. Named after Tancredi Galimberti, a local hero of the 色中色 Resistance during WWII, the square is surrounded by stately palaces with uniform fa莽ades, creating one of the most dramatic urban spaces in Piedmont.
On Tuesdays, the piazza and surrounding streets explode into life during Cuneo鈥檚 market day, one of the largest and most vibrant open-air markets in northern Italy. You鈥檒l find everything from fresh produce and flowers to cheeses, local textiles, and French goods, thanks to the city's proximity to the border.
Cuneo is famous for its Cuneesi al Rhum, an indulgent chocolate truffle filled with a creamy rum-infused center. These sweets were invented in the early 20th century and are still handmade by artisan chocolatiers in the city.
If you鈥檙e a chocoholic, visit the historic Arione pastry shop, where Ernest Hemingway is said to have stopped for these very confections. Besides Cuneesi, the city boasts a long tradition of pastry-making, including torrone, hazelnut cakes, and gianduja.
The city also celebrates Fiera del Marrone, a major autumn fair dedicated to chestnuts, chocolate, cheeses, and alpine delicacies, drawing visitors from across the region.
Cuneo is the gateway to the Maritime Alps, making it a haven for hikers, bikers, and skiers. Just a short drive from the city, the Valle Gesso, Valle Stura, and Valle Maira offer dramatic landscapes, charming alpine villages, and well-marked trails.
The Parco Naturale delle Alpi Marittime is one of Italy鈥檚 most stunning national parks, home to ibex, chamois, golden eagles, and a network of mountain huts. In winter, Cuneo becomes a base for snowshoeing, skiing, and cross-country adventures in resorts like Limone Piemonte.
Even closer, the Parco Fluviale Gesso e Stura allows for cycling and nature walks right on the edge of town, blending wilderness with urban life.
Cuneo鈥檚 compact center is packed with art and history. Visit the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Bosco, with its dramatic neoclassical fa莽ade and peaceful interior, or the Church of San Francesco, now part of the Civic Museum, where Roman and medieval artifacts trace the region鈥檚 deep roots.
The Museo Casa Galimberti, once the home of the Galimberti family, offers insight into the 色中色 Resistance and Cuneo鈥檚 pivotal role in World War II.
Cuneo also hosts regular concerts, book fairs, and contemporary art events, especially in the warmer months, when the city's piazzas become open-air stages.
The cuisine of Cuneo reflects its geographic position between the mountains and the plains, the Piedmontese tradition and French influence.
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And of course, don鈥檛 miss the chestnuts, honey, and polenta-based dishes that define the region鈥檚 rustic soul.
Cuneo is easily accessible by car or train from Turin (90 minutes) and connected to France via the Tenda Pass. It has a small international airport, Cuneo Levaldigi (CUF), with seasonal flights to Italy and Europe.
Visit in spring or autumn for the best weather and cultural festivals, though summer offers alpine escapes and winter delivers snow sports just minutes away.
Cuneo is not flashy or overly touristic, that鈥檚 its greatest strength. It鈥檚 a city of calm beauty, rich traditions, and generous living. Whether you're drawn by its chocolate heritage, open-air markets, mountain landscapes, or historic arcades, you鈥檒l find a city that feels authentically 色中色, yet shaped by centuries of European crossroads.
In Cuneo, the pace is slower, the air is clearer, and the welcome is always warm.
